Last week, I got a break from classes (yes, I actually do have classes, homework, and papers) and got to enjoy a week of travel through Chile and Argentina. It was one of the best trips I’ve ever been on, as I did so many things I’d only dreamed about.
Santiago:
Our first stop was Santiago, Chile. I have to admit, I wasn’t particularly fond of the smoggy, crowded city. The fact that every waiter and subway employee warned us to be careful probably didn’t help my already skeptical opinion. To be fair, I was expecting something new and fresh, and after living in Buenos Aires for two months another Lain American city probably can’t produce the ‘wow’ factor. We did enjoy a delicious meal in which we tried traditional Chilean dishes. The most delicious by far was the pastel de choclo, which was a thick corn substance in which you could dig for tasty treasures such as meat or potatoes. Besides some bad seafood and a touristy ride up a hill to see a statue of Mary, we toured one of Pablo Neruda’s houses. This was actually really interesting, as the home was built like a boat and decorated really eccentrically.
Viña del Mar/ Valparaiso:
While Santiago was a bit disappointing, I found my new favorite place in the world just two hours away. Viña del Mar and Valparaiso, neighboring Chilean towns resting on a hilly seaside, were the most charming and beautiful places I’ve ever been.
Viña del Mar boasts curving coastlines that harbor palm trees and castles. Valparaiso was equally as scenic, but with a quirkier personality. Brightly colored houses speckled hills that plunged into glittering ports. Everyone was relaxed and friendly, wandering the streets or spending the afternoon in a cafe. Art galleries and fairs that sold artesian goods were fun to browse. And of course, I made a few purchases: alpaca socks, fanny packs, indigenous jewelry.
Mendoza:
It was hard to leave the sunny coast, but I was excited for the rest of our trip. We boarded the overnight bus to Mendoza, Argentina. I was used to long bus rides, but this one proved to be a little more difficult than usual. We were roused in the middle of the night and ushered off the bus to go through customs on the Chilean-Argentine border. Unprepared for such circumstances, the hour-long wait in the callous cold was almost unbearable. Finally, passports stamped and luggage inspected, we were allowed to return to the comfort (sort of) of our bus.
When we finally arrived early the next morning, our hostel graciously allowed us an early check-in so we could get a few hours of much needed sleep before our first adventure: paragliding. Aerial sports were never really something I had considered attempting since the thought of dangling mid-air thousands of feet above ground sounded more miserable than pleasant. However, after hearing others’ accounts of the tranquility and remarkable views I decided to give it a try. I was slightly nervous but had heard enough about it to know that it would not be a scary experience. We drove higher and higher into the mountains before dropping off my friends (who would go next) and continuing on. The takeoff felt like something out of a cartoon. Attached to a guide and a giant sail, I was instructed to start running across the plateau to the cliff’s edge. A bit nervous about what would happen when I reached it, I obeyed. And what do you know, I ran and ran and next thing I knew my legs were still moving but I no longer felt the ground beneath them. It was like the moment right before the cartoon character realizes they’ve run off a cliff when they’re still suspended in the air. Only the fall never came. The ride was ridiculously serene. I was seated, flying through the air, and gazing down upon the mountains landscape below. The guide even treated me to aerobatics- we did a full spin! This was definitely one of the most amazing things I’d ever done.
Until the next day’s excursion: climbing a mountain in the Andes. We signed up for a day of trekking, not really sure what was in store for us. Led by two Argentine guides, our group set off up the steep mountainside cluttered with wobbly rocks and slick patches of snow. The high altitude made each breath a laborious process and left me slightly light-headed. Visions of myself sitting on the mountainside waiting for the group to finish and come down to get me flashed through my mind. I honestly didn’t know if I was going to make it. But, four hours and a few thorn injuries later, we reached the top of Arenales. Textured ridges and snowy peaks surrounded us as we picnicked atop the summit. I’d never felt so accomplished! And I have to say, a ham sandwich never tasted so good. The descent was even more tricky, as the skittering rocks torqued my ankles and knees and we kept sliding on the snow. That night, we relaxed and enjoyed a delicious asado prepared by our hostel while getting to know our fellow travelers.
While our adventures so far were great, we had to spend our final day touring Mendoza’s most famous attractions: the bodegas. We boarded a bus to visit three such wineries, and the tour ended up being just us. Each tour showed us the methods of production, taught us a bit about the process and different flavors, and let us taste a few wines. It was really interesting to learn about how the different flavors are created. Of course, the lunch that was included in the excursion was equally as enjoyable. The table was covered with a delicious spread which we quickly learned was only the appetizer. Followed by four courses and a dessert, the meal left us full and sleepy.
San Juan:
There is really no reason to go to San Juan other than to see the rock formations in the Valley of the Moon, which is what we had planned to do. However, due to some planning errors, the tour cost quite a bit more than anticipated and entailed 12 hours on a bus before our 10 hour bus ride that night. There was a bit of a panic when we abandoned the original plan and realized our detour to San Juan was completely in vain. However, it turned out to be one of the best days of the trip.
After talking with the hostel employees about free excursions, we boarded a bus that was packed with locals. It took us about an hour outside of town, and the ride was better than any tour bus I’d ever been on. We drove through leafy villages where children played in the streets and rudimentary buildings dotted the landscape. The bus finally dropped us off on the side of a dusty road that seemed to stretch on forever. The only thing in sight was the sign that read “Costa Magna.” After a brief hike, we reached our destination: a lakeside beach. Seeing as it was a weekday, the cabana-lined sand was vacant; we had found our own private paradise. We spent the afternoon sunning and picnicking on the water’s edge before making our way back to the road, hoping the bus would return. That night, we cooked a delicious stir fry, garlic bread, and salad before boarding the bus to our final destination.
Cordoba/ Villa General Belgrano:
There really isn’t much to do in Cordoba other than visit the churches and historic buildings that look pretty much the same as the ones in Buenos Aires or any other major city in South America. However, Villa General Belgrano, a town two hours away populated by German immigrants had an attraction that we couldn’t pass up: Oktoberfest.
A huge festival, the event draws thousands of people who go to drink beer, eat bratwurst, and enjoy traditional music and dance shows. Oktoberfest has a very specific regimen. Step 1: Buy a beer mug. Step 2: Attach it to the sash that you also purchase. Step 3: Fill it with an assortment of beers which you sample with bratwurst and sauerkraut. To me, all the brews tasted equally disgusting. But, I figured I had to look to my German heritage and give it a try. Unfortunately, a huge storm rolled in, so we rolled out. But, it was an experience to remember.
